Brackets, Bumpers & Doors

Photos 1-14

Photo 1

Photo to the left shows removable fender bracket. This is the right side bracket. it attaches to the identical places as a welded one would. The top "flat" bolts to the headlight bucket via three machine bolts. The headlight buckets are also removable.

Photo 2

The right bracket showing more clearly the "flat" that attaches to the headlight bucket. The "angle" of that flat is necessary to fit the shape of the bucket. The bottom hole excepts a 8mm bolt recessed under the strut.

Photos 3 through 4

Photo shows "new" left and right horn brackets. Brackets attach to the center 8mm bolt, one of three, that holds the fender bracket. My personal feelings are that these brackets are necessary. These allow the heavy horns NOT to be mounted on the normal brackets that fasten to the fenders. The weight of the horns, especially because they are extended forward from the original brackets, create undo stress on the "L" bracket that's welded to the fender.

The large nut, seen in the photo, excepts the horn. Basically the same as the original.

Photo 5

Photo shows left rear fender bracket which is also removable. A Full Flow oil filter will be attached to this bracket. The removal of these brackets will allow for better access to the underside for undercoating. The brackets will also look nice painted black.

Photo 6

This photo shows the necessity to clamp the front bumper to a flat surface. The "arch" on this side didn't match that of the other side. I don't believe the bumper was hit or damaged. I believe it came this way from the factory.

Photo 7

This photo shows added material to the edge of the bumper. This will bring it closer to the body or fender line and look the same as the other side. The tape is the edge where the metal will be trimmed.

Photo 8

This photo shows the relocating of the hole that secures the overrider bar. The original hole was off by .25". Doesn't seem like much but pointless to "pull" the fender or overrider bar for proper placement. Pulling would also increase the fender to bumper gap which would defeat the purpose for this task.

Photo 9

This photo shows improved bumper to fender line. Added metal material can also be seen. This material will be filed and "dressed" up. Both the left and right bumper to fender lines should be as identical as possible.

Photos 10 through 12

I've mentioned this before, the removal of metal on the door insides to allow the "working" of the panel after the lower door bottoms have been replaced. I find the replacing of at least 8" necessary to allow for better access to the weld line so it can be "worked" with a dolly and hammer. The removal of this metal or pieces is necessary to allow for this task. This task could never be as successful replacing only 4" or so.

As you can see from the photos, the removed pieces are simply clamped and welded back in place. This task isn't difficult at all. Pieces or sections should be removed with a saw blade and not with a grinding wheel. The wheel removes too much metal, increases the gap and allows a more difficult welding process which isn't necessary.

Photo 13

This is an important photo in that it clearly shows the "rolled edge" that exists on original doors. Not the easiest thing to duplicate. This is probably why some restorations, and from professional shops, choose to finish this area "flat" to the door bottom. Probably leaded or most likely filled with bondo. Check your doors!

Photo 14

This photo shows a row of "pop" rivets used to attach the longitudional to the sill. Yes, I removed the flange on the longitudional and just "slipped" it into that "slot." To replace a longitudional properly requires the removal of it many times. The flange that comes with it only gets in the way. Also, the "splitting" of the sill isn't necessary in this case. Positively a better way to replace the longitudionals.

Brackets, Bumpers & Doors Photos 1-14
Photo 1 Photo to the left shows removable fender bracket. This is the right side bracket. it attaches to the identical places as a welded one would. The top "flat" bolts to the headlight bucket via three machine bolts. The headlight buckets are also removable.
Photo 2 The right bracket showing more clearly the "flat" that attaches to the headlight bucket. The "angle" of that flat is necessary to fit the shape of the bucket. The bottom hole excepts a 8mm bolt recessed under the strut.
Photos 3 through 4 Photo shows "new" left and right horn brackets. Brackets attach to the center 8mm bolt, one of three, that holds the fender bracket. My personal feelings are that these brackets are necessary. These allow the heavy horns NOT to be mounted on the normal brackets that fasten to the fenders. The weight of the horns, especially because they are extended forward from the original brackets, create undo stress on the "L" bracket that's welded to the fender. The large nut, seen in the photo, excepts the horn. Basically the same as the original.

Photo 5 Photo shows left rear fender bracket which is also removable. A Full Flow oil filter will be attached to this bracket. The removal of these brackets will allow for better access to the underside for undercoating. The brackets will also look nice painted black.
Photo 6 This photo shows the necessity to clamp the front bumper to a flat surface. The "arch" on this side didn't match that of the other side. I don't believe the bumper was hit or damaged. I believe it came this way from the factory.
Photo 7 This photo shows added material to the edge of the bumper. This will bring it closer to the body or fender line and look the same as the other side. The tape is the edge where the metal will be trimmed.
Photo 8 This photo shows the relocating of the hole that secures the overrider bar. The original hole was off by .25". Doesn't seem like much but pointless to "pull" the fender or overrider bar for proper placement. Pulling would also increase the fender to bumper gap which would defeat the purpose for this task.
Photo 9 This photo shows improved bumper to fender line. Added metal material can also be seen. This material will be filed and "dressed" up. Both the left and right bumper to fender lines should be as identical as possible.
Photos 10 through 12 I've mentioned this before, the removal of metal on the door insides to allow the "working" of the panel after the lower door bottoms have been replaced. I find the replacing of at least 8" necessary to allow for better access to the weld line so it can be "worked" with a dolly and hammer. The removal of this metal or pieces is necessary to allow for this task. This task could never be as successful replacing only 4" or so. As you can see from the photos, the removed pieces are simply clamped and welded back in place. This task isn't difficult at all. Pieces or sections should be removed with a saw blade and not with a grinding wheel. The wheel removes too much metal, increases the gap and allows a more difficult welding process which isn't necessary.

Photo 13 This is an important photo in that it clearly shows the "rolled edge" that exists on original doors. Not the easiest thing to duplicate. This is probably why some restorations, and from professional shops, choose to finish this area "flat" to the door bottom. Probably leaded or most likely filled with bondo. Check your doors!
Photo 14 This photo shows a row of "pop" rivets used to attach the longitudional to the sill. Yes, I removed the flange on the longitudional and just "slipped" it into that "slot." To replace a longitudional properly requires the removal of it many times. The flange that comes with it only gets in the way. Also, the "splitting" of the sill isn't necessary in this case. Positively a better way to replace the longitudionals.