Photo 7

Closer photo showing welding along the top of the replacement metal piece making up the lower part of the longitudinal. This metal is offered in kits called "perimeter kits."

Actually just flat metal bent at a 90 degree angle. Something that could easily be made. I elected to make my own.

Seat rail plates can also be seen welded in place. Plug welded first for placement then finished welded around the edge.

All welds are cleaned up.

Priner can be seen brushed in placed.

Photo 8

I elected to go higher on the front part of the perimeters as can clearly be seen from this photo. Lower bulkheads were repaired also. This area generally gets removed with the old floors. The edge of the bulkhead has a "step down" to receive the front of the floor pan.

All floor pan welding is "spot" if you have the machine, or in my case, "plug" welds if you don't have a machine. Floor board attachment piece can be seen plug welded in place.

Photo 9

Again, variation in the height of the perimeters can be seen. Floor board bracket is in place and also is the seat rail plates.

The original contact cement can also be seen in most of the photos.

This can be cleaned away eventually. However, more important tasks had to be carried out first. Like, internal structural metal and external body work.

Photo 10

Rocker / fender area. Clean constant radius, both at the fender wire, which BTW has to be added to some rockers, and at the door radius.

New rockers and the lower fender area metal was replaced. Proper rolling of the metal around the wire bead is important.

Look carefully and you can see a line of counter sunk rivets along the recess under the inner longitudinal or at the sill.

I suggest removing the flange at the top of the longitudinal.

Photo 11

Photo also shows clean fender line connecting to the rocker. Wire was also added to the replaced metal in this area.

Lead was used to create tailored "steps" in the door post. Lead was also used as a filler covering the butt weld on the metal welded to the door post. Lead is also used in this area to control the door gaps.

The striker is primed but will be discarded and replaced with a new one.

Fogs, Brackets, Floors & Rockers Photos 1-11
Photo 1 This photo shows Marchal 640 fogs mounted on brackets attached to the tube supports. Photo also shows stripped bumper. Repair and body work is currently being performed on both bumpers. Always keep the original bumpers if possible, even if it means doing metal or body work to them. Photo shows temporary assembly of bumper components. Pre-assembly is important to get things straight and even. More difficult to do after finish paint.
Photo 2 Closer view of the Marchal 640 mounted behind the overrider bar. Certainly a different appearance than mounted on the overrider bar. Headlight bucket isn't primed because it's removable. It will be put permanently in place before finish paint. the fender braces will also be removable and put in place after undercoating and finish paint. These brackets can be seen at this URL: http://www.cfcgraphics.com/metalwork/29.htm
Photo 3 Another view of the Marchal 640 fog lights. The set back of placement from the overrider bar is clearly observed. The fabricating of a special bracket was necessary to accomplish this. There was absolutely nothing available in the line of pre-made brackets. The bracket took over 20 hours to complete, from concept to finished product.
Photo 4 This elevated view shows more clearly the fog light bracket attached to the tube support. The tube support actually controls the distance the bumper is from the body. The next photo shows a much better and closer view of the fog light bracket.
Photo 5 The left fog and bracket. Certainly not the clearest photo, but the bracket can be seen better. Attached to the tube support and designed to "offset" the fog light just enough to place it in a desired area. Masking tape can be seen between the bumperette and the overrider as a temporary gasket. Don't want to leave a mark!
Photo 6 Shows completed floors in place. Replaced "overlapped" "perimeters" can also be seen. Scibing and butt welding of these items isn't actually necessary. My reasons for overlapping these pieces are: When I did my "D" I elected to overlap these perimeters or the bottom inner longitudinal pieces. I did this because: 1) They get covered with carpet and you can't see them. 2) Much stronger to overlap. 3) Easier to pull off the task. 4) No warping of metal. 5) On the tunnel side, keeping the perimeters high and overlapping, eliminates the possibility of passing a Mig wire into the tunnel and not only damaging the electrical wire from heat, but eliminates left lengths of Mig wire that could be a problem later if something was to be pulled through the tunnel.
Photo 7 Closer photo showing welding along the top of the replacement metal piece making up the lower part of the longitudinal. This metal is offered in kits called "perimeter kits." Actually just flat metal bent at a 90 degree angle. Something that could easily be made. I elected to make my own. Seat rail plates can also be seen welded in place. Plug welded first for placement then finished welded around the edge. All welds are cleaned up. Priner can be seen brushed in placed.
Photo 8 I elected to go higher on the front part of the perimeters as can clearly be seen from this photo. Lower bulkheads were repaired also. This area generally gets removed with the old floors. The edge of the bulkhead has a "step down" to receive the front of the floor pan. All floor pan welding is "spot" if you have the machine, or in my case, "plug" welds if you don't have a machine. Floor board attachment piece can be seen plug welded in place.
Photo 9 Again, variation in the height of the perimeters can be seen. Floor board bracket is in place and also is the seat rail plates. The original contact cement can also be seen in most of the photos. This can be cleaned away eventually. However, more important tasks had to be carried out first. Like, internal structural metal and external body work.
Photo 10 Rocker / fender area. Clean constant radius, both at the fender wire, which BTW has to be added to some rockers, and at the door radius. New rockers and the lower fender area metal was replaced. Proper rolling of the metal around the wire bead is important. Look carefully and you can see a line of counter sunk rivets along the recess under the inner longitudinal or at the sill. I suggest removing the flange at the top of the longitudinal.
Photo 11 Photo also shows clean fender line connecting to the rocker. Wire was also added to the replaced metal in this area. Lead was used to create tailored "steps" in the door post. Lead was also used as a filler covering the butt weld on the metal welded to the door post. Lead is also used in this area to control the door gaps. The striker is primed but will be discarded and replaced with a new one.

Fogs, Brackets, Floors & Rockers

Photo 1

Photo 2

Photo 3

Photo 4

Photo 5

Photo 6

Photo 7

Photo 8

Photo 9

Photo 10

Photo 11